Kote for kendo: how to put them on, take them off, store and lace them

Bogu Market • July 31, 2026

What kote are

Kote (小手・甲手) are the gloves, or gauntlets, in a bogu set. They cover the hands, wrists and forearms against shinai strikes. They're the last piece of bogu you put on and the first you take off.

Kote are protection and a target at the same time. A clean strike to the opponent's wrist (kote-uchi) scores ippon, so the construction has to absorb impact and keep the wrist mobile at once.

Parts of a kote

Parts of a kote — kashira, namako and kote-buton

The anatomy:

Kashira — the fist section that protects the palm and fingers. Padded inside with deer hair or a substitute
Namako — the "waves" at the wrist and forearm: single or double (sometimes more) folds that add flexibility. Without namako the wrist would be locked
Kote-buton / hiji — the section covering the forearm up to the elbow

Kote that are too big or too small are very uncomfortable — and they tire you out early. Kote that are too tight squeeze the wrist and block movement; kote that are too large flop around, slide down onto the hand and get in the way of holding the shinai.

Materials

Kote are the most "composite" part of bogu — a single glove uses several materials:

Deerskin or synthetic leather (Clarino) — on the fist section and the wrist. Clarino is a Japanese synthetic leather developed as a deerskin replacement: lighter, cheaper, and unbothered by sweat or water
Indigo-dyed cotton or felt — on the forearm section (kote-buton). Indigo is traditional and has an antiseptic effect; felt is cheaper and easier to care for
Decorative silk thread or synthetic fiber — the stitching that forms the namako pattern and the edging
Deer hair (or a substitute) — the padding in the fist section. It absorbs impact well and takes the shape of your hand

Modern washable kote made of synthetic leather and fabric are a class of their own. They can go in the washing machine, which is unusual for bogu. If you train often and sweat is a problem, washable kote are the easiest option.

How to put kote on properly

Putting kote on — push the glove onto the hand, don't pull the forearm section

Kote go on with a movement along the arm, like an ordinary glove:

Slide your hand in through the forearm section
Push the glove onto your hand
Don't pull on the forearm section to drag the kote the rest of the way

If you pull on the kote-buton (the forearm section), you'll deform the glove and damage the joint that protects the wrist. That spot carries the most load, and once it tears the kote goes in for repair — or gets replaced.

The right movement is to hold the fist section with your free hand and simply push your arm deeper in, as you would into a thick leather glove.

How to take kote off properly

Taking kote off — from the elbow, not by the fist section

From the elbow only!

Grip the kote-buton (the forearm section) with your other hand
Slide the kote from the elbow toward the hand — the glove will come off on its own

If you pull on the kashira (the fist section) to yank the kote off your arm, you can deform the glove or damage the wrist joint. This holds for every kind of kote — leather, synthetic, washable.

Taking kote off "like a mitten" — by the fingertips — ruins gloves faster than anything else. Better to do it right from your very first session.

How to store kote properly

Kote care — wiping the inside of the fist section

Sweat and dirt ruin kote the same way they ruin a men: the cavities inside the fist section are hidden and take a long time to dry.

After every session:

Smooth out the leather of the glove so the folds inside the kashira don't stick to each other
Let it dry in a well-ventilated spot
Wipe the inside now and then, the same way you do a men — with a damp cloth, then dry
The inner cavities are the hardest part to dry. Hang the kote somewhere airy and stuff newspaper or a desiccant into the fist section

Washable kote can go in the machine following the maker's instructions — usually a delicate cycle, no spin, low temperature. Leather kote must not be washed.

Lacing kote

Lacing kote is a skill of its own. The cord runs around the wrist and forms a symmetrical pattern of loops that holds the kashira in place and spreads the load on impact.

Preparing the cord

Preparing the cord — the end wrapped with tape

Wrap the end of the cord (about 3 cm) with tape — it keeps the cord from fraying and makes it easier to feed through the holes

The lacing order

Lacing a kote — from the elbow toward the wrist, a row of loops

Start on the outside, at the elbow end — by the forearm
Work gradually toward the wrist
Feed the cord in from the outside, making a row of loops until you reach the end

The result is two symmetrical rows of loops on both sides of the kote — the classic look of proper lacing.

Finishing the end knot

Finishing the end knot and the lacing result — two symmetrical rows of loops

Once the cord reaches the end, it has to be secured so the knot won't come undone under load and won't look crude.

The four steps for finishing the end knot:

Form a loop at the end of the cord
Pass the end through the previous loop
Pull the knot tight
Trim the excess and wrap it so it doesn't fray

The final knot — both cords gathered and tied at the center

The final look is a compact knot that doesn't stick out and doesn't catch on your kendogi sleeve. If the knot came out bulky — redo it: in practice it will snag the shinai and work itself loose over time.

When to replace the lacing

Kote cords are a consumable. Replace them if:

the cord has worn through in one of the loops
the knot has worked loose and won't hold after retightening
the loops on the two sides have ended up different sizes, throwing the kashira off center

Re-lacing takes 15–20 minutes and adds years to the life of your kote.

The short version

Kote (小手・甲手) are gloves and a target. They consist of the kashira (fist section), namako (the waves at the wrist for flexibility) and the kote-buton (forearm section)
Materials: deerskin or Clarino (synthetic leather) on the hand, indigo cotton or felt on the forearm, deer hair for padding
Size is critical: tight kote tire your arm, large ones flop around and get in the way of the shinai
Put them on by sliding your hand in and pushing the glove on. Don't pull on the forearm section
Take them off from the elbow only — otherwise the wrist joint deforms
Dry them after every session, packed with newspaper or a desiccant. Washable kote can go in the machine
Lacing: start at the elbow, rows of loops on both sides, end knot finished in four steps
The cord is a consumable: replace it when it wears through, when knots work loose, or when the loops go uneven

Frequently asked questions

What are kote?

Kote (小手・甲手) are the gloves, or gauntlets, in a bogu set. They protect the hands, wrists and forearms from shinai strikes. The fist section is padded with deer hair or a substitute to absorb impact. Kote are also a target: a clean strike to the opponent's wrist (kote-uchi) scores ippon.

What's the difference between deerskin and Clarino?

Deerskin is the traditional material for the fist section of kote. It's soft, breathes and molds to your hand, but it costs more and doesn't like water. Clarino is a Japanese synthetic leather: lighter, cheaper, and unbothered by sweat or washing. Deerskin gives a 'deeper' feel on impact, but Clarino is more reliable for everyday use. There are also washable Clarino kote with a fabric lining — those can go in the machine.

Why should kote only be taken off from the elbow?

If you pull kote off by the fist section, you can deform or damage the joint that protects the wrist. That's the most vulnerable spot on a kote, and it holds the shape of the whole glove. The right way is to grip the forearm section and slide the kote from the elbow toward the hand — then it comes off easily, with no strain on the seams.

What is namako?

Namako are the 'waves' on the forearm section of the kote: single or double folds that add flexibility at the wrist. The more waves, the more mobile the kote — but the thinner the protection. Usually you'll see single namako (for firmer protection) and double namako (for more wrist mobility, handy for kata and for experienced kendoka).

How do I keep kote from smelling?

Kote soak up sweat as fast as a men does — especially the hidden cavities inside the fist section. Dry them right after practice in a well-ventilated spot, with the leather smoothed out and newspaper or a desiccant stuffed inside. Now and then wipe the inside the same way you would a men — with a damp cloth, then dry. Washable synthetic-leather kote handle machine washing.